Thursday, March 25, 2010

How to make a wedding dress - Part 2a - more sketches

Here are a couple more sketches I left off the last post -- the second might be closer to what the dress will look like.

Wednesday, March 24, 2010

Lessons Learned From Two Retailers - A case study by the WSJ

Photo credit: Reuters

I subscribe to a number of fashion blogs, including Business of Fashion, to keep up with the industry. On BoF, I came across this WSJ article, which compared the fates of Inditex (best known for the Zara chain), and French Connection. Inditex is doing incredibly well -

His 4,600 stores made a net profit of €1.31 billion for the year to Jan. 31.
While French Connection --

Mr. Marks, however, now sits atop a business that had a loss of €27.4 million for the same 12 month period and is being forced to cut back its ambitions. It is parting with its upmarket Nicole Farhi brand, closing stores in Japan and the U.S. and planning to focus on the 123 stores and concessions it operates in the U.K. and Ireland.
The bullet points:

- Inditex has maintained tight control over the business -- Zara is renowned (esp among business analysts) for quick response to customer demand (and lack thereof). On the other hand, French Connection has expanded via licensing (where you sell the use of your brand to others) and franchising (where you sell the right to open a store of your brand) -- diluting brand image and quality.

- French Connection has used shocking advertisements to market the brand whereas Zara/Inditex has used minimal advertising, instead using shop windows and store presence as a marketing tool.

- Inditex has had constant investment to its company, along with steady expansion.

The bottom line, according to the WSJ:

Get the right product in the right place and at the right price and customers will be induced to buy without the need of gimmicky advertising.

How to make a wedding dress - Part 2 - more sketches and inspiration

Katrin sent me some photos of clippings she liked. This first photo showed volume in the skirt with a tulle/organza layer peeking out underneath.

She wanted an earthy tone for the contrasting organza that would be wrapped around the dress.

She wanted a sheer neckline at the top of the dress.

I came up with a couple more sketches, which are below, to try to figure out how the organza layer would work on the dress in an organic sort of way. I wasn't 100% sold on the sketch, so I told her I would begin draping the dress and show her photos.


Which I will hopefully get to in the next week or so.

Kell on Earth - aka my new favorite show


My friend Kellan recommended the Bravo reality show, "Kell on Earth" to me recently. I started watching the episodes I could find online this past weekend and I love it. The show follows Kelly Cutrone, the owner of People's Revolution, which is a big PR firm that represents some big clients (and not so big ones), such as Vivienne Westwood (according to Wikipedia, theydon't list their clients on their site). The most interesting episodes to me were the ones that showed what happened behind the scenes of the shows Cutrone's firm produced during Fashion Week.

Cutrone is abrasive and there are times when the work environment at People's Revolution appears to be hostile, but you can tell under that bitchy exterior, she really cares about her employees and her clients. It's also interesting to hear her break down what she does -- PR and sales are parts of the business that I have been trying to figure out since I began my journey in fashion, and watching a seasoned veteran navigate those territories is intriguing.

In sum, if you want to understand the industry better (and be entertained along the way), this is a good one to watch.

Friday, March 5, 2010

Spend a CRAFTernoon with Graey!

On Saturday, March 27, 2010, Graey will be doing its first CRAFTernoon to benefit The Father's Heart Ministries. We will be teaching you how to reverse appliqué, to transform old t-shirts into handcrafted headbands and wristbands.

I got together a few days ago with my friend Diana, who has been helping me with business strategy over the past several months, and we made a couple of samples to show you:


I made this headband with a swirl and star shapes. The swirl is a cream color and the star is a pale blue, contrasting with the grey jersey of the band. All the fabric was cut from my brother's old t-shirts.


Di made this blue wristband with a cream colored star, also from my brother's old t-shirts.

The paper we used to sketch our ideas.

So bring yourself, friends, old t-shirts (you can share with your friends and trade different colors) or fabric scraps, a sharp pair of scissors, and needle and thread and we'll teach you how to do the rest.

My friend Dawn, who owns Whoopsi Daisy Bakery (see link below) will be baking yummy cupcakes for the event.

There is a suggested donation of $20, the proceeds of which will benefit The Father's Heart Ministries, "a faith-based 501(c)3 not-for-profit ministry created to demonstrate God's love through practical expressions of compassion. Through a unique blend of programs, practical training and classroom instruction we are addressing the special needs of the elderly, the working poor, the unemployed, at-risk youth, immigrants and those without social or family support. Our programs include hunger prevention, food stamps access, gang-prevention/youth development, parenting and anger management classes, ESL classes and Alphabet Scoop, our job training/mentoring program for teens. Our goal is to empower individuals to become self-sufficient, to see families healed and restored and to see them move from dependency to dignity; from poverty to prosperity."

http://www.fathersheartnyc.org/

Whoopsi Daisy Bakery: http://whoopsidaisybakery.com/

Click here to register for the event.

Friday, February 26, 2010

How to make a wedding dress - Part 1

One of my friends from childhood (we did orchestra together growing up), Katrin, messaged me on Facebook a while back about doing a custom wedding dress for her. We messaged and e-mailed back and forth and finally in early January, she came to my house in Westchester where I was at the time to start the process.

I took her measurements, and we looked at photos she'd printed out as well as ones online to try to figure out what she wanted. She liked avant-garde designers like Issey Miyake and wanted a more non-traditional dress. She had an abstract idea of what she wanted -- she liked the neckline of the purple dress from Spring 2010 along with the wrapped tulle skirt we did for my knits shoot. She also wanted folds or tucks in the skirt of the dress.


She wanted a relatively simple dress that was wrapped with tulle or organza in a way that appeared "accidental." I started with a couple of loose sketches and she chose this as our starting point for the quest to come up with the ideal dress design.

The notes in all caps are hers. When I received the sketch she chose, I tried to come up with a more concrete sketch while I waited for her to send me more clippings concerning the color palette and other details she found.

Wednesday, January 20, 2010

From Tom Ford's interview of Nicolas Ghesquiere

FORD: I think loneliness comes with being creative, because you are obsessed with creation. And it is so satisfying that sometimes, I have noticed, I completely neglect my friends and my family, and they fall away. That has happened now. I have worked so hard on my film and my business that I need to take the next six months and spend time with Richard [Buckley, Ford’s partner] and friends. Most of them have just sort of forgotten about me, because I have not been there for them. If you are creative, sometimes you give up a lot of things that other people have.

(to read the whole interview, click on the title of this post.)

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

Switching Gears

In my last post related to the development of my line, I had discussed selling my knits on consignment. Through the process, I came to a couple of conclusions:

1. Producing the knits in New York at relatively small quantities meant that I was making a very small margin -- I had to sell the pieces at a certain price to make back what I had spent, and it was hard to sell the pieces at too high a price since my label was unknown and there was nothing obviously special about the pieces. What I mean is that my design details were on the subtle side, whereas most people who buy something "designer" expect the garments to have something flashy or different about them.

2. The pieces that I was most excited about weren't always the ones that sold the best -- i.e. people reacted most to the more accessible items. I needed to think more about what my target customer wanted.

3. I wasn't that excited about designing these types of knits. If I was going to continue tees, they either had to be even more "high-end" with more intricate embellishments, or --

I decided to change directions with my line and go a little more dressy. I decided to do a small collection of silk dresses. At first, I was going to try to have it ready for Spring/Summer 2009, but I felt rushed. After meeting with my friend's cousin, Keryn Dizon, the designer of the line, Elijah, and asking her for advice, I decided to take my time in developing the next collection.

In the meantime, my friend Michelle introduced me to her friend, Noelle Stout and Emily Benson, who had started a production company on the side called House of Noem. Noelle worked in real estate advertising for TimeOut New York and Emily worked as a merchant for Henri Bendel. They wanted to help an emerging designer stage a fashion show so we met up in October 2008 to get the ball rolling.

We decided to do a presentation as opposed to a show. The difference is that whereas a show tends to be a one-time deal, usually around 15 minutes long, a presentation tends to have a longer window, and instead of the models coming down the runway, they tend to be standing around like mannequins. We aimed for the beginning of Fall 2009 fashion week in February 0f 2009, to try to maximize attendance. Noelle would find us a location through her real estate contacts, and the rest of us would work on different production aspects.

In the meantime, my friend Ferris and I shot what would be the Fall 2009 collection on our friend, Summer. Another friend, Emem, designed a lookbook for me.

Monday, January 4, 2010

Happy New Year!

I'll admit that I'm a bit in denial about it already being a new year. I think what makes it more unnerving is that now we're in the double digits of this millenium.

Before I go into some of my resolutions for 2010, I wanted to reflect on things that I was proud of accomplishing in 2009:

1. Fall 2009 presentation last February -- I can't believe it's only been about a year, it seems like so much longer. In addition to getting press in WWD, it was also exciting to work with models from agencies like Trump and get sponsorship from Barefoot Wine.

2. Building up freelance work in different areas --
- web design: In addition to getting more clients (through Craigslist and word of mouth), the scale of the projects have been gradually getting larger
- violin: I played a few weddings along with a proposal (with my friend Mich, which was kind of hilarious)

While unpredictable, it's been exciting to be getting a fairly steady stream of work, especially in the web stuff, often unsolicited.

3. Getting requests for custom work --
I've mentioned that I've been starting to get requests for custom clothing, which has been exciting. I've already made a couple of pieces for my old violin teacher (I have to finish another project for her). I'm also about to start working on a non-traditional wedding dress for a friend -- I am hoping to document the process, from sketch to completion.

4. Selling at boutiques -- I've been thrilled to work with boutiques including Albertine, Sucre, and Item here in New York, along with online boutique, Sunday Brunch.

5. Writing and performing my own song -- I've been playing violin with bands and singer/songwriters for about a decade now, but I've only begun learning the guitar and writing my own songs. My family used to tell me I had a horrible singing voice, so I'm a bit shy about singing in public, but I had a great time singing at the show we did in December, and I'm looking forward to singing (more songs) in February.

6. Learning to rock climb -- I've never been into sports, but I've really been enjoying learning how to rock climb!

EDIT:
7. Making a music video to publicize the Spring 2010 collection.

Now for resolutions. I've never been big on those, but I figured if I made some of my goals for the year public, it would help motivate me to achieve them.

1. Get in better shape -- sometimes I am amazed at the fact that I ran 6x a week when I was in high school. I can't even imagine doing that now. I don't have ambitious goals -- I'd like to try to get to the point where I am taking 30 min walks at least a few times a week, and doing more situps and pushups.

2. Write more songs and get better at the guitar -- I did some songwriting over the holidays. Music has been a fun creative outlet for me, so I don't want to push myself to the point that it's not fun any more, but I'd like to write and perform more of my own songs.

3. Open a boutique --
today I walked into D.L. Cerney, a boutique on E 7th St, next to McSorley's. Next to it is a workshop where they make the clothes, which are made from vintage fabrics in mid-20th century styles. It was my first time inside and I managed to catch one of the owners and we had a nice chat about his store, which looks like the kind of store I'd like to own. I don't know if this is something that can happen in 2010, but I'd like to figure out a way to open my own brick and mortar store eventually. He's had his store for 25 years and he said he was able to make it because he was tenacious and had his blinders on, focused on his goal.

4. Expand my custom business -- this may be tied to the goal of opening a boutique/workshop.

5. Get better at rock climbing -- I want to be less frightened when I am outdoors, and work on my technique so I am able to do more of the tricky climbs (involving overhangs).

6. Wake up earlier -- I've always been more of a night owl, but I'm convinced that waking up earlier is key to being more successful. Often when I read about successful people, they wake up early and get a slew of things done before most other people are out of bed.

I read a blog entry by a dude who trained himself to wake up at 5:30 every morning by simulating a wakeup routine for a few weeks. I haven't bothered to try it, but I have been trying to go to sleep earlier, and doing things like setting up morning meetings with friends for coffee or taking a walk or doing yoga. The bad thing about setting your own schedule is that sometimes it's really hard to get yourself out of bed, even if you have a bajillion things to do.

7. Build up my wholesale business -- I want to take a more structured approach to selling the line, although I haven't decided whether this would mean getting into a showroom or doing a tradeshow or both.

I think that's it for now. Feel free to comment if you have any suggestions, particularly about the waking up bit.

Tuesday, December 22, 2009

busy busy busy

It's been a few weeks since my last entry. I've been quite busy --

We did GenArt SHOP NYC -- it was a great event and I would love to participate again! I'll give more details later...

On 12/6 I played a show at Rockwood Music Hall with my friend Shawn and sang in public for the first time! Here is a link to the tracks although I will post up a compressed version on YouTube soon. Photos by Sarah Juel Edminster.



12/10 was my last day of teaching painting for the semester at a charter school in Brooklyn. Here are some photos:








12/12 was my birthday, and I managed to get a bunch of friends to go rock climbing with me at Chelsea Piers. Photos by Tomi Omolulu-Lange:




I've been getting more and more requests for custom work which is exciting.

I'm looking forward to chilling out a bit next week and writing new songs for our next Rockwood show (on 2/13!)

Monday, November 30, 2009

GenArt SHOP NYC this WEDNESDAY, 12/2!

Graey will be participating at GenArt's SHOP NYC this Wednesday, 12/2. We'll be selling Fall 2009 at 25% off, with additional discounts (50-60% off) older styles. There will also be free drinks, a DJ spinning, and spa and beauty treatments!


SHOP NYC
Wednesday, December 2


VIP Preview of SHOP NYC / Styles Finalists Presentation
6:00-7:00pm: Live Model Vignettes
7:00pm: Award Presentation
* Specialty Cocktails provided by Potocki Vodka

SHOP NYC: General Admission
7:00 - 10:00pm
(does not include admission to awards presentation)

7W
7 West 34th Street
(@ corner of 5th Avenue)

Gen Art invites you to attend our holiday SHOP NYC taking place at the lovely 20,000 sq ft 7 West Lofts on December 2nd. This year's VIP Preview of Shop will also feature the Styles 2009 Fashion & Awards Presentation.

VIP ticket holders
will have access to both the VIP Preview of Shop (first dibs on items), as well as to be able to view the Styles 2009 Fashion & Awards Presentation.



You can get more info about the event here: SHOP NYC

Saturday, November 28, 2009

Life Lessons Learned From Rock Climbing

Yes, after the last post, I realize I might sound a bit obsessive. However, in addition to the physical activity, rock climbing has been valuable to me because of the lessons I have been able to apply to my life. For instance:

1. When faced with a seemingly insurmountable challenge, focus on what's just in front of you, and take small steps. Especially when I go outdoor climbing, I am often overwhelmed by the height of the cliff face, and how sheer it is (it often feels totally vertical). However, if you take your time and examine the surface for small cracks here and there, and chalk marks left by other climbers, you can slowly pick your way up the rock, one small step at a time.

Often I feel this way about my work. I get so overwhelmed that I don't know where to start. It's good to sit back and figure out small steps you can take toward your goal.

2. Once you decide to make a move, don't hesitate; go for it! There have been many times, both in rock climbing and in life, where I have decided to take a step, but then hesitated, and either drawn back or faltered. In climbing, this often wastes energy. In life, you end up wasting time. Sometimes you have to go for it, even if there is a chance you might fail, because on the flip side, there is a chance you might succeed.

3. It's OK to fall. Obviously, you want to be careful (and safe). However, sometimes if you want to make it to the top, you have to be willing to take a risk. When you're climbing, you're usually either clipped in somewhere or someone's belaying you, so the distance you will fall is limited -- you won't (as I often irrationally fear) die. Similarly, when you're taking risks in your work or business, it may not go the way you want, but at least you'll learn something about how you should proceed the next time. What you don't hear about successful people is all the times they failed, but it takes a lot of falling to reach the summit.

4. Learn from others' mistakes and don't be afraid to ask for help. At the Gunks, the term "beta" is used for advice on how to go up a climb. Often, other people who have more experience than you (and are less terrified) can better see the best approach up a climb. Similarly, I like to read about other designers and even entrepreneurs in different fields to gain insight on how to succeed in the business.

5. Keep trying. I've been going climbing, mostly indoors, every week and although I have so much more to learn, it's also been great to see the progress I've made over the past couple of months. As I mentioned in the last post, there's nothing better than that feeling you get when you're able to finish a climb that you couldn't do a week or two earlier. There's no magic to success -- it's all about how hard you're willing to work.

Rock Climbing

What did I do on Black Friday? I certainly didn't shop -- the thought of fighting through the crowds made shopping the last thing I wanted to do today.

Instead, I went indoor rock climbing. I started getting into rock climbing this fall. I've been trying to find an activity that I enjoy that will get me into shape. In high school, I ran track and did some swimming and tennis. I was more of a sprinter though, and I don't really like running, especially on a treadmill where I always feel like I'm going to fall off. Swimming indoors kind of sucks because indoor pools are so humid and you feel like you're going to suffocate from lack of oxygen after several laps. Tennis is fun but I get kind of sick of running around after the ball. I hate going to the gym -- I get so bored. I've also tried yoga, but the few times I've gone, I've just been standing there, acutely aware of my discomfort, wondering when the class would be over.

Rock climbing is fun because you're focused on getting to the top of the climb so you don't realize you're exercising. It's also cool because you're mainly competing with yourself, trying to improve your footwork and technique, and getting through harder and harder climbs. (As a side note, if I lived in a warmer area, I'd love to get into surfing).

Here are a few places to check out if you're interested in getting into climbing:

1. I initiated myself into the sport (someone corrected me and said it's more like an activity) by checking out the open climb at the Field House at Chelsea Piers. On Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday evenings, you pay $22, which includes shoe and harness rental, and there is an instructor named Devin who teaches you how to climb the wall. One of the most important aspects of climbing to remember is to use your feet, which is counterintuitive. Most people instinctively try to pull themselves up with their arms, which ends up making you tired very quickly. Here is a picture of me on the wall:
I bought a 10-pass which is only $160 and have been going every week. Another thing I love about it is that I can see myself improving each time. If I don't get a climb one week, I'll often be able to do it the next time. Devin is also a great instructor, and very encouraging. The only negative about the wall here is that it's only 20 ft tall, and not very wide.

2. This is not to be confused with the wall at the Sports Center at Chelsea Piers:
According to the website, this wall is 46 ft tall, and 10,000 sq ft in area. It looks awesome and I'd love to go but you either need a membership or a day pass that costs $50. A little pricey for me.

3. After going several times at Chelsea Piers, a friend took me up to the Gunks, which is the colloquial name for Shawangunk Ridge, near New Paltz, in upstate New York. Considering it's only a couple hours outside the city, it's great climbing. Here are some photos my friend took of me the last time I went up a couple of weeks ago:
Here I am, climbing up, I think it was Shockley's (if you are the first to go up a climb, you can name it). I am afraid of heights (the height of the cliffs average around 150 ft according to Wikipedia) and was terrified while I was climbing so I was hugging the rock for dear life. However, you are actually supposed to lean back with your arms straight (bending your arms is bad because it burns out your muscles), and your legs bent.

Here I am, rappelling down. This looks fun, but is a little scary too because you are basically letting yourself fall down a cliff (you control your progress down by pulling on the rope), although it is safe because you're secured with the rope. We normally get to the cliffs around 9am and stay there til around 2pm. A day goes by very quickly at the Gunks. Afterwards, we stop at the Farmer's Market. I like to get apple cider donuts which are yummy; my friend enjoys the peanut butter cookies.

Unfortunately, because the Gunks are a bit far and you can only go when the weather permits, I probably won't get to go much for the next couple of months.

4. A few months ago, a climbing gym called Brooklyn Boulders opened up in Park Slope. The walls there are a little higher than at the Field House at Chelsea Piers, around 30 ft tall, and it's a lot bigger. A day pass is $20, but you have to pay another $10 to rent shoes and a harness. Also, unlike at the Field House, there isn't an instructor guiding and belaying you. The place is geared more towards experienced climbers. We took the "Learn the Ropes" class, but they basically just teach you how to belay (tying a figure 8 knot, using the grigri device), and don't really teach you much about climbing. You also need to make sure you have a partner who is belay certified, unless you just want to boulder.
5. Today, since I was in Westchester, I went with my friend to check out The Cliffs at Valhalla, one of the indoor climbing gyms in the area.
This gym is even bigger than Brooklyn Boulders, and the walls are higher, maybe around 40 ft? I tried out the bouldering, which was tough (but luckily you have the little crash mats) and a couple of the easier climbs (I did a couple of 5'6es but had difficulty with the 5'7s and 5'8s). A day pass costs $16, plus $5 for shoe rental, $3 for harness. Depending on when you go, the staff will belay you. It was a fun time, and when I got home I was exhausted.

One thing I noticed about the walls at The Indoor Cliffs and BKB vs. The Field House is that there are features in the wall at the Field House, or bumps and grooves in the wall that aren't actual holds, whereas the walls at the other places are totally flat with the rocks stuck on them.

Before I went up to the Gunks this last time, I bought some shoes, since you have to rent them there and at some of the gyms I've been going to. I managed to go to EMS when they were having a sale, and bought these:
This is the FIVE TEN's Women's "Siren" climbing shoe. I got them for about a hundred bucks. They have FIVE TENs at Chelsea Piers, and I also liked the Coyote model, but they were sold out of the Fox, which is the women's equivalent. Anyway, I tried these on as well as Sportivas but I liked the fit (and I'll be honest, the look) of these shoes better.

I also picked up this Prana chalk bag:
Mine is blue. I liked the feel of the outside of the bag and it was easier to open and close than the Black Diamond one.

A few days ago I also bought this Petzl Sama harness:
It's actually the men's model but it fit me well (and they were sold out of the women's medium).

And, finally, a carabiner to clip my chalk bag to my harness:
Mine is blue.

Good times. This entry turned out to be much longer than I intended. Happy Climbing!

Thursday, November 26, 2009

Happy Thanksgiving!


I'm a bit ashamed to admit that Thanksgiving is more associated in my mind with gorging myself than actually giving thanks. I also have to admit that lately I've been having a hard time feeling grateful for all that I have. So I've decided to make a list of things that I am thankful for:

1. family -- They may give me a hard time about things sometimes, but they have been as supportive as they can be of my endeavors.

2. friends -- They keep me sane when i start slipping into my crazy ways and lift me up when I'm feeling down.

3. talents -- God has given me different gifts which I want to use to glorify Him -- music, art, fashion.

4. rock climbing -- I've picked up rock climbing since the fall and it has been a great distraction as well as a lens through which I can see where I am struggling in my life. I plan to do a post on this one soon.

5. career -- Although it often feels like things are down more than up, I want to give thanks for the small successes I've achieved so far.

6. food/clothing/shelter -- I'm well provided for, in ways that much of the world is not.

7. health -- I have all my limbs, no real medical issues to speak of or worry about, although I do bruise really easily -- what's up with that?

What are you thankful for?

Tuesday, November 24, 2009

Karl / Marc


Over the past few weeks, I've watched two fashion documentaries -- Lagerfeld Confidentiel and Marc Jacobs & Louis Vuitton. Both of these have been out for some time, but I only recently watched them in full.

They were both interesting to watch -- I actually watched the Marc Jacobs DVD twice. As the creative heads of Chanel and Louis Vuitton, they are obviously at the top of the game and wield enormous influence over the fashion industry. My favorite parts of the films were watching the collections came together -- the sketching, the fittings, the shows, etc.

The films are interesting also because they provide a window into the designers' lives and personalities. Karl seems somewhat cold and very confident. His design process appears very easy (he just seems to sketch things that come out of his head) and he doesn't appear to worry about whether or not the collection will be well received. Marc, on the other hand, appears more neurotic (there's a montage of him lighting up many cigarettes) and passionate about his work. Every detail is meticulously considered.

It was inspiring to watch them at work -- after all, they live the dream. They work with the best ateliers in Paris to create luxurious and beautiful garments, not to mention the fame and celebrity. One thing that struck me was how they both seemed to be going nonstop, to the point where I wondered how they kept going. Marc seemed to be working all the time, flying from Paris, to Tokyo, to New York, to London. Karl worked a lot as well, but also had time to read tons of books and shop for tons of clothes and other possessions (his apartment was filled with these things), as well as do non-Chanel related photo shoots (I believe he shoots all the Chanel ad campaigns). It made me feel like I need to work much harder, and wake up earlier... but that's for another post.

Somewhat related, I found this CNN Money old article about Marc Jacobs' partnership with Robert Duffy:

Managing Marc Jacobs

and noticed these bits of information:

The two connected after Duffy, then a 30-year-old sales manager for a fusty Seventh Avenue clothier, Reuben Thomas, saw Jacobs's graduating show at Manhattan's Parsons School of Design. They got funding from Reuben Thomas and embarked on a two-person journey through the fashion world - a bonding experience that would put each of them on a first-name basis with their strengths, weaknesses, and demons.
This, according to MarcJacobs.com, happened in 1985.

Jacobs and Duffy extended their contract by ten years, and LVMH agreed to fund a major store expansion for Marc Jacobs to transform the line into a global brand. With its new resources, the Marc Jacobs operation entered the black for the first time two years ago.
The article was written in 2007, so two years ago would have been 2005. That means it took their company TWENTY YEARS to make a profit! What????

Another interesting bit:

In the fashion world, it seems, behind every successful designer there's a Robert Duffy - a right-hand man who enables and goads the artist to create a viable business. The designer Yves Saint Laurent had Pierre Bergé, who took charge and financed his company after Saint Laurent suffered a nervous breakdown in 1962. Valentino has Giancarlo Giammetti, a brusque enforcer who, after nearly 50 years, still protects the designer from the mundane details of balance sheets so that he can focus on his opulent creations.
That much I've always known; I need to find my Robert Duffy, who will make sure I wake up in the morning and get on task. Sigh.

Anyway, learning that it took MJI that long to get profitable made me seriously consider getting a full-time job as a designer for another label for the first time in a while. I definitely won't give up on Graey, but for a number of reasons it seems to make sense. Anyone hiring?

Sunday, November 22, 2009

I hate cleaning my apt...

... but when I finally do, I find myself in a better mental state, ready to get things done.

Friday, November 20, 2009

Comparisons

The fashion industry has been buzzing about the apparent suicide of Korean model, Daul Kim, aged 20. I was struck by the news for a couple reasons. First, obviously, because she was Korean. Secondly, hers was a star that was on the rise, and for the past couple of years, she's been walking some of the hottest shows.

Finally, despite being Korean (from South Korea), she intrigued me because her outlook on life seemed much more liberal and independent than that which I associate with South Korean culture. Her candid writing on her blog was refreshing to read and she was one of the few top models about whom I felt, "I want to be friends with her."

Anyway, hearing about it reminded me of that quote -- "Don't compare what you know about yourself with what you don't know about someone else." From the outside, it seemed like she had it all -- beauty, looks, fame, success, but apparently she was quite unhappy.

RIP.

Thursday, November 12, 2009

Learning to Sell

It's been a while since I've done one of my what I'm now calling, "becoming a designer" posts. So I continue from where I last left off a few months ago.

Once the fall knits were produced, I shipped them to a couple of boutiques (including KrisTees in Astoria and Item in the Upper East Side) who had agreed to carry them on consignment. For those of you who don't know, consignment is when the designer basically bears all the risk. As opposed to the traditional arrangement where the buyer buys an order of a selection of pieces, usually paid on delivery or on 30-day terms, on consignment, the designer ships pieces to the buyer and is only paid for the ones that sell. The ones that don't are returned to the designer.

There are obvious cons to this arrangement -- since the designer is bearing all the risk, there is less incentive for the buyer to sell, and if pieces don't sell, the designer is left with inventory. However, consignment arrangements are one way a designer can convince a hesitant buyer to give the line a try in the store. The stores that carried my pieces were able to move the pieces. It was interesting to see which items sold better than others.

I also checked out the Young Designer's Market in NoLiTa and managed to sell items there. I only went a few times, but felt that my pieces weren't necessarily the best fit.

Meanwhile, I still had my online site up, where I occasionally sold pieces from time to time.