Thursday, January 17, 2013

What kind of designer are you? What kind of business do you want to run?

If you're interested in running your own fashion business, the Fashion Incubator blog is a great resource.  Two posts I would recommend if you're trying to figure out how your business will look like are "What kind of designer are you?" and "Where and how do you start a design business?"

In the first, Fasanella describes five archetypes of designers:
  • The artist
  • The artisan/engineer/technician
  • The mogul
  • The accountant
  • The project manager
 In the second, she describes categories of fashion entrepreneurs:

  1. The dilettante: one who aspires to a bit of pin money,
  2. the income replacer: one who needs income equivalent to a job -or maybe even a bit extra,
  3. the merchant: those who need to support their family and their employees families with the business,
  4. corporate: one who aspires to scale; growing their business to whatever limits there are.

In fashion, as this article about Tory Burch and her newly minted billionaire status describes, one doesn't become hugely successful (at least financially) by creativity alone:
In food-chain terms, she's probably Carluccio's rather than River CafĂ©. Power to her. Maybe she'll use some of that power to invest in the inventive designers who struggle to achieve anything like her level of commercial success, because here is the bottom line: in fashion, you'll always make more money packaging taste than lobbing little grenades of genuinely new design at the world. But without innovation, taste eventually becomes arid.
You need to be able to figure out how to marry creativity and commerce.  Predict the kind of products your target customer wants to buy but keep it fresh and new, so that they get excited and have a reason to buy.

Tuesday, January 15, 2013

How to get a job as a clothing (fashion?) designer - part 1

I originally started this blog mainly as a chronicle of my journey in the fashion industry, but it's been almost a year since I've written anything about my personal career path, which categorizes most of the posts under the "becoming a designer" tag.  I'll admit that some of it was laziness, but most of it was a hesitation to write about it as it was happening, since I never know who could be reading this blog.

Anyway, in my last post about my line, I mentioned it was sort of killing me.  In hindsight, I realize I just didn't have a plan.  I was flying by the seat of my pants, and while I don't believe you need a 50 page business plan to run a successful clothing business, you do need to sort of have long and short term goals, at least for the next 6-12 months, and I didn't have that.  I was trying to design clothes, sell them, produce them (not myself), market them, AND support myself through freelance work.  The anxiety of not knowing where my next paycheck would be coming from, and the frustration with feeling like I was running in place with my line forced me to reevaluate my approach.

I decided I needed to take a break and recharge.  I needed to work for someone else, receive a steady paycheck, get health insurance, and not feel like I was in a constant state of panic about money and the state of my line.  It was a difficult decision to make but definitely the right one.

I put together a resume and started applying for jobs.  I spoke to recruiting agencies like 24Seven, I went through company websites (a lot of the larger companies have some sort of online job search/application engine), and cold emailed companies I wanted to work for.  Through connections and sheer persistence, I was able to get interviews, but I was having a hard time actually getting hired.  There were a few factors involved:

1) When I started looking for a job, we were in one of the worst parts of the recession, where there was high unemployment.

2) Having worked at small and/or high-end designer labels before launching my own line (where I produced domestically), I lacked some of the skills that most companies who were hiring look for -- namely, creating tech packs*.  Sure I could make my own patterns, sew a garment from scratch, sketch flats**, and be considered for Project Runway, but because I didn't have experience with creating tech packs, I was at a major disadvantage.

I could produce a fashion presentation, talk to stylists, editors, buyers, style and produce photo shoots, etc, but I didn't have the experience of working in a big company in mass production, where garments were produced overseas and there was a formalized manner of working.  It wasn't rocket science, and I knew I could pick it up if someone were to show me a couple of things, but it was hard to get someone to take a chance on me.  In some ways, my Harvard degree worked against me, as it made me stand out as a bit of a maverick among the sea of fashion school graduates.

3) My experience was in a different set of skills from most people who had been working as long as I had in fashion design.  Most people who were hired for the positions I was applying to had a) graduated from design school b) had started working for a company straight out of design school and had picked up skills like creating a tech pack along the way.  I had a) NOT gone to design school b) had worked in production first, not design c) started my own line early in the game, thereby picking up a different set of skills, namely fashion entrepreneurial skills.  I was too experienced for an entry-level position, but didn't quite have the right experience to get a position at the next level.

It took a while for me to figure all of this out, and I had to take several steps before I landed the kind of position I wanted.




*What is a tech pack? A tech pack is short for technical package.  Different companies use different formats, but it's a document that is sent to overseas factories that instructs a factory in how a garment should be made.  It usually includes a flat sketch of the garment, measurements, fabric and trim details, beading/embroidery details, how to finish the garment, photographs of original samples the garment is based on, etc.  Since most production happens overseas now, knowing how to do a tech pack is considered essential, as it is how designers communicate to factories how their samples should be made.

**Flats are short for flat sketches.  They are basically sketches of a garment as it would look laid flat on a table.  Most companies use flat sketches rather than sketches on a figure, despite all the time spent in fashion schools learning how to draw garments on a figure.

Tuesday, January 8, 2013

ponies will bite you! debut EP release! FREE download!


My band, ponies will bite you! has released our debut EP, Argyle. We're letting people download it for free on our Bandcamp page because we want as many people as possible to hear it.

Please listen, download, and share!

We're playing an EP release show on Sunday, 1/27, at 5pm, at our favorite venue, Rockwood Music Hall.  Here's the Facebook invite: https://www.facebook.com/events/191070707700158

We're also doing a concert on a Google+ Hangout On Air on Monday, 1/28 at 10pm for our friends who aren't able to make it to the show in NYC. Here's the Google+ invite: https://plus.google.com/u/0/b/112562852938055757181/events/ce4rbp0bgt39ccg2q2rhheirs1g

 Download the EP here: http://ponieswillbiteyou.bandcamp.com

Monday, January 7, 2013

Thursday, January 3, 2013

Tuesday, January 1, 2013

Happy New Year! Fall in Scotland

Last fall I updated my portfolio. One of the collections (I did one fall, one spring) was inspired by the Scottish highlands. I ended up sewing one of the looks together and we shot it at the duck pond in Central Park to make it look like we were in the Scottish highlands. I wasn't sure what I was going to do with the designs (i.e. whether they would be a collection in Graey or whatever), which is why I waited over a year to post these photos on my blog. They came out beautifully though. I love the way George photographed it to make it look like Rachel was transported to Scotland.












For now, this is all I'm going to do with the collection. You can see the sketches for the rest of the collection here.

Sunday, December 30, 2012

What are ya doin' New Year's Eve?

My bandmate Shawn recently picked up the ukelele, so we decided to learn "What Are You Doing New Year's Eve." The song, penned by Frank Loesser in 1947, was brought to the fore last year by Zooey Deschanel and Joe Gordon Levitt.

And now we are covering it! Enjoy!

Thursday, November 29, 2012

My first music video! Drive

Last October, my friend Erica shot my bandmate Shawn and me at Coney Island.  We hung out in the boardwalk, drove bumper cars, and ate hot dogs.  I finally edited the video last weekend -- here it is.  Enjoy!

Monday, November 19, 2012

Quote from Grace Coddington

And what of the up-and-comers? “I think they need time, and I think too many of the young designers really think that they can step right out of school and be a best seller, and that’s a mistake,” Ms. Coddington said. “I mean, you know, Nicolas took forever to get where he was. Marc got fired 10 times before he made it.”
Anyway, it wouldn’t hurt young designers, or anyone for that matter, to have “a few things going wrong in their life,” she said. “I mean, I hate to say it, but it teaches you a hell of a lot, you know.”
- New York Times article, "Always in Fashion"

Wednesday, October 24, 2012

cool photo of my hair from a month or so ago


A while ago, I decided to bleach my hair (again).  My stylist, Lynne, was redoing her website and gave me a discount in exchange for modeling for pictures for her new website.  She styled my hair, adding white streaks to tone down the color (which always turns out a little brassy), and teasing it.  She had a makeup artist there to do me up, and her friend Stan took pics.  They came out cool -- here is one!

I am growing out my hair so I can do a mohawk ponytail (the plan is to continue to keep the undercut on the sides).

Thursday, October 4, 2012

ponies will bite you! perform Miss You at Rockwood Music Hall

It's been a while since I've updated my blog.  I started a new job in June and tried to enjoy the summer as much as possible when I wasn't working.  My band has been active lately as well, which is why I'm posting today.  I wrote a new song and performed it at Rockwood Music Hall a couple of weeks ago.  I hope you like it!



Also, this German climbing mag, Klettern, posted the shoot I did in the climbing gym a while ago on their website!

Saturday, June 9, 2012

Bridesmaid dress

About a year and a half ago, I "made" my friend Rachel's wedding dress.  Her best friend got married recently, so after helping her search for the right bridesmaid dress unsuccessfully, I offered to make it for her.  She wanted a simple black dress that was made out of a knit fabric, and that she could wear again after the wedding.  She told me the bride wanted something like this dress: 



We set off for Mood, where she purchased black bamboo stretch fabric.  I used some old fabric to make the muslin which we fit in the middle of her birthday celebration at Dave & Busters, and then went ahead and cut the actual garment.  I was glad I had her buy 4 yards of fabric because the skirt was quite wide.

The dress is very simple, with a higher front neckline, and a bit of a scoop in the back neck.  There are two layers of the circle skirt, which is why it took so much fabric.

On the mannequin:


Rachel and Ryan at the wedding in Kentucky!




Rachel's been wearing the dress to castings and says she has been getting lots of compliments!  Which I guess goes to show that sometimes people don't want edgy fashion, they just want clothes that make them look good.

Wednesday, May 30, 2012

My cousin Mary rocks the corset dress


My cousin Mary visited New York a couple of weeks ago.  It was her first time in New York, and the first time I'd seen her in about seven years.  She just graduated from college and has already started a job in advertising.

Here she is, looking super cute in the fuchsia corset dress!  We had a good time shopping and eating together.  Mary is a very talented singer and drummer, and we jammed for a bit too.  A love of music runs in the family!  Hopefully I'll get to visit her in Chicago, where I've never been.

You can find the dress at our online shop: http://www.graeyny.com/shop/dresses-1/corset-dress.html

Thursday, May 10, 2012

Tom Ford's Advice for Aspiring Designers

Advice for Aspiring Designers
It might be the same thing that people used to tell me when I said I wanted to be an actor, which is, “If there is anything else in the world that you would be happy doing, do that.” I’m serious. This is the harshest industry. I have worked in the film industry with people like Harvey Weinstein, who is a great man but he is also very tough. But, I’m telling you, that industry is easy compared to what we do.

Wednesday, May 9, 2012

Some sketches, a new tumblr

I did these sketches a few weeks ago, thought I'd share.  They are not my usual style, at least design-wise, but I like the way they came out.  They are more geared towards ladies who lunch.






I started a new tumblr.  The difference between my tumblr and this blog is that the tumblr will be, at least for now, exclusively image-based, whereas here I write about my thoughts.  I am going to post photos and sketches on there of my work.  You can find it here: http://janetleekim.tumblr.com/

Friday, May 4, 2012

Spring 2012 Roundup - M-P

Beautiful embroidery at Marchesa...


Love these straps on the pants by Mandy Coon...

Marios Schwab...


Mark Fast
Mary Katrantzou
Michael Angel
Mugler
Norma Kamali
Paco Rabanne
Peter Pilotto
Prabal Gurung
Prada
Preen

Wednesday, April 25, 2012

Hearts and crafts


Hermes has produced a documentary on its artisans called Hearts and Crafts.  It's beautifully done.  You can watch it here.

Friday, April 13, 2012

My foray into still-life styling

I've been exploring getting into still-life styling. George shot and retouched the clothing, which I pinned to a thick piece of foam board, and then I arranged them in Photoshop to look like magazine spreads.  It was a bit challenging because we did the shooting on my roof, and the wind would blow and the light would change so I'd have to move stuff around, but I think it looks pretty good for a first try.  It definitely was a good learning experience.

I have a friend who has an agency that represents stylists, and she told me that with the current economy, magazines and retailers are favoring still-life shoots as opposed to using models, where you'd need to pay models and hair and makeup artists.  Just in case you're reading the captions, the labels and prices in my layouts are mostly fake.




Thursday, April 12, 2012

I made this shirt...

...for a client, an artist.




She gave me a shirt that she liked that she'd bought in a thrift store, and gave me fabric to make it in.  She wanted it in a cotton since the original shirt was in a polyester that didn't breathe well.  I made the shirt from scratch, first creating a pattern from the original shirt.

I pinned the shirt down and traced it, making adjustments where she'd pinned it to take it in here and there.  Then I put it all together.  It was a little tricky cutting the fabric because the print was so large and in big blocks, so I had to make sure to line up the center front in the middle of the diamond, and that the sleeves were cut so that they matched.  It also took me some time to get the collar to look right, but I think I did a pretty good job.  She picked out the bright red buttons, which give it a nice touch.

Tuesday, April 10, 2012

ponies will bite you! do a cover of Come Pick Me Up by Ryan Adams

Sometimes you want to listen to a sad breakup song... here is a good one.  The violin intro is a little out of tune but it gets better, I promise.

Monday, April 2, 2012

ponies will bite you! sing about a Magic Mirror

This is one of my songs.  This song has evolved over the past couple of years... some of my songs are more angsty, inspired by my frustrations...

Thursday, March 29, 2012

A couple new shots of the pink lace dress...

Where you can see the mottled bleach effect...





And... a short dress from my surf-inspired collection -- I love the combination of the dress with the tree in the background.





A dress I whipped together one night... unfortunately you can't really see much of it here, but this shot is nice.

Photos by George Evan Andreadis
Model: Carla B with Images